Everything You Need to Know About the No-Chip Manicure

As one of the most popular manicure options, gel nails are commonly offered at salons as a long-lasting, chip-free alternative to regular nail polish colors. With their durability and wide range of colors and designs, it’s no wonder most people opt for gel manis. The good news: If you want to skip the salon, you can achieve professional-level gel nails at home. Ahead, find everything you need to know, including step-by-step gel application, removal, benefits, tips for beginners, and more.

What are gel nails?

Unlike dip nails, which require powder and liquid activator for application, gel nails can be cured using a UV lamp. But before you try your own DIY gel nails, it’s important to get informed. According to Eunice Park, brand director at Aprés Nail, it takes a certain skill level to apply gel. And without proper treatment, mistakes can lead to damage, especially when it comes to gel removal.

“Creating a smooth base layer can be a challenge for the inexperienced, especially if you have uneven natural nails,” says Park. “Additionally, many who are inexperienced can often overfile when removing, which can damage the nail plate, or worse, they rip or peel the gel off. This will take layers of your nail plate off and create thin, brittle nails.”

What’s the difference between hard and soft gel nails?

There are two types of gel nails: hard gel nails and soft gel nails. The difference is clear in the name. Hard gel nails typically cannot be soaked off, rather must be filed off because of the strength and durability of hard gel formulas. This is also the type of gel you’d get if you’re creating long nail extensions, like Gel-X tips. “Soft gel, on the other hand, can be soaked off with acetone, and most color gels are a soft gel formula,” says Park. Due to the give and flexibility of the formula, soft gel cannot be used for lengthy extensions.

How do you apply gel nails?

First, your nail should be cleaned and prepped. Most of the time gel is applied directly to the natural nail. “You would apply a gel basecoat, color, then gel topcoat,” says Park. “Most gels these days cure within 30 seconds in an LED lamp.”

According to Julie Kandalec, an NYC-based celebrity nail artist, the curing process is a result of a cool chemistry trick. “When we shine the UV light on our gel nail polish, it triggers a chemical reaction that causes the molecules in the polish connect to form a hard plastic structure, creating a durable, glossy finish that can last for weeks without breaking or chipping,” she says.

What are the benefits of gel nails?

Pros recommend gel nails for anyone who uses their hands often. “Gel nails are more durable than regular polish,” says Park. “They will last longer and be less prone to chipping, and the colors are much more vibrant in gel.”

Are gel nails healthy?

When it comes to nail health, Park says gel nails can be nondamaging if applied and removed correctly. “With proper prep, application, and removal, they can be healthy for your nails,” she says. “Many gel polishes are also coming out with HEMA-free formulas as well, which is also beneficial for the user. Aprés Light & Shadow Sheer Gel Couleur collection is a HEMA-free, vegan, cruelty-free polish line that is both gentle and beautiful.”

Are gel-nail UV lamps safe?

The truth is, the results are mixed. Experts say we don’t fully know whether UV nail lamps are safe for the skin. “Although we know UV exposure can increase the risk of premature aging and skin cancer, based on the limited duration during a manicure, the exact risk associated with UV nail lamps is unknown,” says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.

What about professional-grade lamps?

The same goes for professional-grade lamps. Pro tip: Dr. Garshick recommends applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, such as the Supergoop! Hand Screen, to your hands before using your UV gel lamp for precaution (remember that sunscreen needs 15 to 30 minutes after application to get to full strength). “Additionally, wearing UV-blocking gloves with the fingertips cut out, like ManiGlovz, is another effective option,” she says. Artists also recommend at least sticking to the same brand of gel lamp as your polish, as they are intended to work together for best results.

Are gel nails better than acrylic nails?

If you’re debating between gel nails and acrylic nails, there are some factors that might sway you. “Gel creates less dust and there are less fumes, which more and more people are becoming sensitive to,” says Park. That being said, both options pose benefits and potential downsides. “But any nail system can be damaging to the nails without proper experience and care,” she says. “I like to think it’s more of a preference than saying one system is better than the other.”

How long do gel nails last? How often should you get them done?

“With proper prep and application, gel nails can last two to four weeks,” says Park. Artists recommend getting them redone at the three- to four-week mark, when the gel has grown out and you can see your nail bed peeking through.

How do you remove gel nails?

When it comes to removing gel nails at home, technique is key. “A common misconception about gel is that it damages your nails, which isn’t true,” says nail artist Mazz Hanna. “It’s often the removal process that can be damaging.”

Hanna recommends the following steps for a successful and safe removal.

You’ll need a towel to protect your table, cuticle oil, a glass bowl, acetone nail polish remover, a nail file, a cuticle pusher, and a buffer.

Get yourself organized by laying out your towel (fold it so it’s thick) and setting out all your tools. Hanna recommends placing a paper towel over your work area to collect the gel as you scrape it off.

“To do this, simply use your nail file to remove the top layer of gel from your nail plate and free edge,” says Hanna. “The more you file off during this step, the less time you will need to soak your nails. Be sure to use the side of the file with a harsher grit for this step.”

Fill your glass bowl with about an inch of acetone nail polish remover. Hanna recommends Orly Genius Remover “because it doesn’t smell offensive, removes gel quickly, and is gentle.” Before soaking your nails, generously apply cuticle oil to the entire tip of your finger to keep your nails protected and hydrated. Then place your fingertips in the remover for about five minutes, or until you notice the gel beginning to curl up and lift.

Use your cuticle pusher to gently (key word gently) scrape the gel off your nails. “If there’s any resistance, place your fingertips back into the acetone for another minute or two, and then try again,” says Hanna. “Repeat this process until the gel is completely removed.”

Once the gel is completely removed, use a buffer to smooth your nail plate. Generously apply cuticle oil, and massage it into your nails to nourish them.